P20 Repairs                                                                         

I have ran the P20 a lot now and things are starting to come loose. So there are a few things to check out as regular maintenance items. 

The spring  ( parts # 46-49 ) fell out of my saw while cutting. So check the screw in that at times to be sure yours does not fall out. The screw has very few threads into the casting, don't try to tighten it too tight or it may strip the threads out.

The assembly of parts # 1-5 on the back of the top arm, the screws came loose and the arm started having a lot of play in it. This also caused a lot of blade breakage. There are 3 allen screws to remove to get the top cover  ( part #38 ) off. Two from the front underside and one at the rear of the saw.

Now there are a couple of other things I learned. If the tension lever is hard to push back, really dragging with that metal to metal screech. I used graphite to lube it. What a difference. Smooth as glass now. The graphite is purchased as a dry lube for locks, so look around where they sell keys for cars and doors to find it.

The other thing I found is that the belt can be ran on a step pulley setup to get more variety of speeds from the saw. For example the belt can be on the far left hand pulley of the motor and the second from the left pulley on the saw. This gives a lot more speeds to chose from on the saw. And I have not had to readjust the belt or anything to get it to work. Have not had a problem with the belt jumping off the pulley either.



P20 Belt

If your P-20 belt ever breaks and they are backordered for an infinite time, an o-ring size 2-427, Buna N, 70 Durometer, will fit and work.  I bought one for $2.00 at a local seal supplier.                  
Richard Schink
If you are going to place it on your web you should know that I got the idea from an individual on http://wmyoung.proboards107.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=1176562411&page=4 named Rolf.  He is the original that should get the credit.  I'd also appreciate it if you added this caveat:  If the belt stretches too much and you can't adjust the motor location enough, use a 2-426 or even a 2-425.  I actually bought both the 427 and 426 and changed to the 426 after an hour of cutting.

More on replacement belts:

I suggested going to MSC
part number 75750182

or Mcmaster carr for o-rings of this size. There is also a belt system that uses small barbed connectors to join the ends of a belt with a hollow center. They can be cut to any length. http://www.mcmaster.com/

If you can't make out the specs from my jpeg they are as follows... Durometer is 85 shore on D scale Yellow in color Circumference is 16.5 inches from the picture the diameter is 5.25 inches the thickness is 0.25 and the last one is R2.6257 Hope this helps

Or a sewing machine belt
might work, just take your old belt into the sewing machine parts dept.

Blades are too long for the saw

You can fix that on the P20 so you don't have to cut the blades. Take the oil filler off the top arm pivot, it screws out. Take the top cover off the saw, just 3 bolts. You can somewhat pry the cover up over the top pivot bolt head where you took the oiler out. The air lines and electric wires connected to the arm do not have to be removed. There is enough play in them to get where you need to.
Now you can see the link arm that connects the top and bottom arms on the saw at the back end. There is a screwdriver slot in the top of that linkage. Just tighten that screw a little watching the balde clamp rise as you do it. Stop when you have raised it about 1/8" +. While you are there check the screws are tight on the top of the yoke for the top arm.
Put the saw back together.